Kutahya Part 1

Its been some time since I've posted. It is one of those thing that the longer you put it off the more of a chore it becomes and the harder it is to sit down and write. I suppose it is a bit like cleaning your room as small child. Since my last post I've moved into a new house and started the new apprenticeship with Mark Hewitt. We have fired his kiln and are now in the cleaning process as we prepare for the sale this weekend. This is all worthy of a post or two but I have no pictures to accompany the work we have done. My second camera (a generous gift from my brother Robin) met another early demise in a body of water when Ben dropped it in a creek. Since I returned from Turkey I have been meaning to post these pictures of Mehmet Gursoys' atelier.

We arrived in Kutahya in the afternoon. It is, from an outside perspective, a humble town. When we would tell someone that we were headed for Kutahya the unanimous reaction is one one of confusion. We would get a puzzled look followed immediately by "Why? There is nothing in Kutahya." I can see why the town has that reputation. On the outskirts it is quite industrial. Mostly large ceramic facilities. Kutahya is also know for its large production of toilet bowls as well as other porcelain products. The town does not have much that your run of the mill western tourist would find terribly interesting. It doesn't cater the rigorous demands of a seasoned American traveler who believes that English should be spoken anywhere his feet or visa card can take him. From the moment you arrive an the bus stop or Çini Gar (auto gar is what the bus station is usually called.) you are reminded of what this city has behind its closed doors. Tucked away in small rooms are men and women working slowly and methodicaly to produce some of the most amazing wares in the world. Part 2 to follow......

Boys of Summer

Disclaimer #1: The following blog has nothing to do with pottery.

While on this (rather lengthy) vacation I found myself in the Las Vegas airport waiting in the 103 degree heat to be picked up by one of my dearest friends in the world, to go on what soon turned into one of the most epic backpacking trips of my short life. My vision of the trip was quite different than the reality. In my mind the plan was to go backpacking for about 8 days in the eastern Sierras. I envisioned the trip as relaxing affair with enormous amount of trout fishing interrupted by brief periods of walking just to get to other suitable locals for more fishing. The reality was quite different. I don't know how many miles were hiked the whole trip but suffice to say it was more than I bargained for. After my body acclimated to both the altitude and the abuse it was recieving what commenced was the most beautiful and epic journey into the wilderness I have ever been on. Per Ben's request most of our traveling was cross country or off trail meaning we just look at the topo map and say "That looks pretty...let's go there." and off we would go. We fished in some beautiful lakes and streams and climbed some amazing peaks including on the last day a somewhat insane 1 day ascent of Mt Whitney (the highest peak in the continental United States) that left me limping on my bruised and swollen feet for days. For about 6 days we saw no other human. Just the deer, fish, and ten million mosquitos (I forgot the bug spray in the car). What follows are a few pictures of the trip.
Disclaimer #2: If you will be offended by the unclothed behind of my of my cohort as he launches himself off a massive cliff into Lake Relfection please do not proceed. You've been warned!

Edgefield...

Do these swags look familiar? 

There is a  Michael Cardew quote that Matt would some times repeat in the pottery and I grew quite fond of it.  It said something to the effect of "There are no new forms, just old ones done either well, or poorly."  I think that these few pictures is a nice testament to that.

The old man and the big pot...

This is my father standing next to an enormous pot of the geometric period.

Up close..

This is the shoulder detail from a very old pot.  I forget what century other than it is B.C.  Amazing. 

Trophys...

These pots would be given to athletes as prizes and filled with olive oil.  As many as 40 could be given as a single prize.

Green ovoid jar..

This pot reminds me of so many different forms I love from so many different places....

Ron...

Ron, I have never met you in person but through reading your blog and looking at your work when I saw this pot it immediately made me think of some of the pots you make.  Last night after a great dinner my father and I went on a brief exploration of Delphi and wandered in a store like no other in that small town.  It was cluttered with old Greek antiques including an amazing collection of old Greek pots.  Not old like most of the pots I've been looking at but old like antiques.  The man in the show (who was also quite old) dated most of them somewhere between 50 and 100 years ago.  I was blow away by much of what I saw.  I will post a few pictures of what I found there.  Unfortunately I did not have a way to bring any of these home.  Perhaps another trip...

Pots of a different color...

Its been a few days, very spotty internet connections despite being in the major metropolis of Athens.  We left Istanbul for Athens a few days ago.  This leg of the trip was my fathers suggestion and although I was very excited to come to Greece and see the ruins I had no idea how much pottery these folks made and how beautiful it is.  Its such a departure from what we were looking at in Kutahya.  I've had an old post card of a large amphora over my wheel for the last year or so and to suddenly walk through the museums and see pot after pot was amazing.  Thier forms are full and simple and I've got more inspiration now than I ever imagined I would have come home with.  There are lots of pictures and Ill post my favorites when I get them online.  For now this will have to do. 16th century B.C.

 

 

Kütahya

Tomorrow we leave for Istanbul. Kütahya has been more than I could have hoped for although it would take me three hours to get it all out while typing on this little phone. So it will have wait. I also don't have any photos on the phone as they are all in my camera. In a few days I will fill in all the details. Until then....

Mosaics...

Mosaics of a different kind....

Big tiles...

This is one of two very large tiles outside of the circumcision
pavilion. They are each at least three feet tall. It seemed rare to
see tiles this large.

Tomorrow we are off to Kütahya to see the atölye where so much of the
modern çini is being produced. When I mention to shop keepers who sell
çini that I am going to Küyahya they all look at me like I am crazy.
They say, "Kütahya!? Why would you want to go there?". I am a bit
nervous but things seem to just work out when you let them. Its late
and we leave early. More in a few days...

Pavilion of Pain

This is the circumcision Pavilion, where the young princes of the
Topkapi Palace where, well....it has the most beautiful Iznik Tiles
that you can see in the background.

Chinese...

This is an old Chinese bottle(I forget the dynasty) that is in a very
impressive collection at the Topkapi Palace. The sultans had such an
admiration for the Chinese pots that they had their own people try and
make a similar body of work. The word çini comes out of China. The
çini of the Turks resembles the Chines ceramics only in their mastery
of materials and beautiful brush work for their designs and motifs
although linked are very much their own. There is so much to learn I
feel as though I am only scratching the surface.

Blue Mosque

New Mosque

Rüstam Pasa Mosque tiles